Sulfates... Who Needs Them?

I have been a hairstylist for almost 13 years, and I can remember the first time I heard the word "sulfate" in beauty school. It was described as a necessary ingredient in shampoos, cleansers, and toothpaste that created lather. I remember thinking about sulfates fondly in this moment, reminiscing about those cute little blue scrubbing bubbles I had seen in television commercials or the adorably pink Mr. Bubble from bathtime in my childhood.

Then... they told me sulfates cause cancer.  I couldn't believe it, those cartoon bubbles were so loveable! Could they truly live a double life, moonlighting as harbingers of carcinogenic death?  I certainly hoped not.

Many times after this moment of disappointment in beauty school, I heard sulfates mentioned in this manner.  I began to think of these bubbles as evil little spheres of doom who were certainly trying to kill me.

Everywhere you look these days, "sulfate-free" is plastered on the front of shampoo bottles.  The assumption is that these sulfate alternative products are better for you.  They are often "all-natural" or "organic," and there is a negative connotation associated with buying products without a "sulfate-free" label on them.  Product companies are feeling more pressure than ever before to include sulfate-free  ingredients in their shampoos.  Certainly, this is to avoid the spread of cancer cells traveling by bubble through five layers of scalp skin to kill you, right?  Wrong.

The culprit everyone refers to as dangerous is Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS).  Three different agencies- the Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA), the National Toxicology Program (NTP), and the International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC), have all rated SLS as being non-carcinogenic.  In fact, OSHA lists some nasty side affects for SLS if you inhale, ingest, or get it in your eyes; but we already knew that... there is nothing mentioned of the Big C.

The worst thing sulfates can do is deplete your hair of moisture, or cleanse a little too well.  Whether or not you need them depends on hair type and personal preference.  Recent studies show that sulfates can fade color faster, dissolve keratin bonds in extensions, or dehydrate the scalp by stripping it of natural oils. Consequently, I recommend sulfate-free shampoo to my clients when they are experiencing above average color fadeage, have hair extensions, or are scratching at a dry itchy scalp.  Beyond that, it comes down to personal preference.

If you are concerned about the ingredients in your shampoo and the affect they have on your head, ask your salon professional about it.  Rest assured that your shampoo is probably safe.  Just make sure you are using one that is made for your type of hair to get the most bang for your buck.  In the meantime, I'll be spending a little time with Mr. Bubble in my bathtub.